Information on Travelling to and in Oman

There are so many reasons to visit Oman - beautiful beaches, huge deserts, mountain ranges, all manner of fauna and flora and a mix of historical highlights through to modern malls. On top of that, at the time of writing, it’s an incredible safe place to visit as well as being easy to get around.

It has evolved and developed significantly over the years and is now a popular tourist destination.

Illustration by Abigail Daker

When Sultan Qaboos bin Said (1940-2020) seized power in 1970 there were only three schools, a ban on electricity, radios, eyeglasses and even umbrellas. Slavery was legal, no one could travel abroad, music was banned and there were only 10km of paved roads. It’s hard to imagine when you visit now. Not only did Qaboos build schools, hospitals and roads he created a parliament and granted citizens far greater freedoms, and he became a key Middle East interlocutor, with a strong focus on peace. Peace is very much part of the culture and their way of being.

Geographically it sits on the southeast of the Arabian Peninsular, shares borders with Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates and Yemen. The Gulf of Oman laps its many beaches. It is split - north of the main part of Oman are two exclaves - Madha, which is surrounded by the UAE and Musandam is a peninsular to the north of the UAE, projecting into the Strait of Hormuz.

There’s so much to see and do in Oman and based on my recent experience, I highly recommend it as a place to visit. Below are some thoughts and suggestions. But before getting started, here are a few (slightly random) observations from my trip.

IMPORTANT NOTE: this is all based on my experience and I encourage you to do your own research and get advice. Some of this may go out of date quite quickly and it is not a complete list of everything you should consider. Your government will generally provide up-to-date advice - do check this out before you travel.

A thing in Oman

• Red light and speed cameras – in an effort to reduce road accidents, these are omnipresent

• Speedhumps – for the same reason as above. To keep things interesting they are not always painted or come with signs to warn they are there

• ‘Drive-throughs’ – there is parking space outside coffee shops, restaurants and smaller supermarkets – drivers will pull up outside and toot the horn for someone to come out and take their order

• Shopping malls – most of the shops, certainly the high street shops and many of the large supermarkets are in air-conditioned malls. Many of the international brands can be found

• Clean cars – you get fined for having a dirty car

• Single-use plastic – it’s used extensively and while the cities and towns are kept very clean sadly a lot of this litters the country

• Goats - you see goats like you would stray dogs in other countries, wandering around the streets, eating what they can find

• English - it’s widely spoken - it surprised me just how much it is spoken and nearly all road and shop signs are in English as well as Arabic

• Generosity, hospitality, warmth and kindness - the Omanis are wonderful!

Not a thing in Oman

• Indicating - drivers rarely indicate here – keeps you on your toes

• Pavements and walking – there aren’t so many pavements. Given the extreme temperatures for much of the year, people don’t walk so why put in pavements

• Road drains – with little rain, most roads have no drainage, so when it does rain you have instant lakes and people with no idea how to drive in the rain

• Seasonal affective disorder (SAD) is not a thing in winter, which provides a reprieve from the searing summer temperatures. But SAD is a thing in summer when people are confined to their homes and the aircon

• Cyclists having any right of way. You assume you never have right of way and if someone happens to let you go, it’s a nice bonus

• Letting people in – and I thought Sydney drivers were bad

• Garages – I noticed that none of the houses have garages – carports at most

Some of that might be useful, most not. Here is what I hope will be of more value.

Getting there

Flying

The main international airport is Muscat International Airport, not far from the city centre. Depending on where you are coming from you can get a direct flight or connect through other Middle East countries.

Bus

There is a bus service from Dubai and Abu Dhabi - Mwasalat is one of the main companies (see below for more details).

Drive

You can drive from the UAE - just make sure you have all the required documentation for the car. There are one or two UAE-based car rental companies that will allow you to take the car out of the country. Speaking to a couple who did this, they said it was a big headache sorting all the right documentation.

Getting around

Taxi

Before arriving I recommend downloading the OTaxi app. It is a bit like Uber. It is by far the cheapest way to use taxis. All the cars are in the OTaxi branding. You don’t need to use the app to hail these taxis, but the price will be less if you use the app and means the price is fixed. If you are arriving at the international airport you’ll save money if you book the taxi via the app when you arrive. The airport taxis - the first ones you get to as you leave the airport are super expensive. Even if you don’t have the app, go passed the airport taxi and find the OTaxis.

Bus

Mwsalat is the main bus company here and their website has details of the bus services and timings. You can book tickets online - it didn’t work for me - took the money and then cancelled the booking. The money was eventually refunded. You can pay by cash onboard. In the larger cities, Mwsalat has ticket offices. Al Khanjry is another company but has a more limited service. I did use them when a Mwsalat driver refused to let me put my bike on.

Driving

There are plenty of car rental and a lot of tourists do self-drive holidays. The roads are in great shape and all the road signs are in English as well as Arabic. While the roads are great, the drivers can be less so - the annual death toll on Omani roads is very high. It’s not just the drivers, you can get camels and goats coming onto the roads, so be careful.

If you’re heading to the mountains, or even some of the Wadis you’ll want a 4WD. As per my list of what’s a thing and not a thing in Oman, they’re hot on speeding and jumping the lights and have lots of cameras to capture both.

It’s recommended to bring an International Drivers Permit. In Australia, these are super easy to get.

Driving is on the right.

Cycling

See below in the longer section on bikebacking.

Ferries

There are a number of ferry routes run by the National Ferry Company, part of Mwsalat. Their website has details of the services. I got the ferry to Masirah Island for example - I didn’t book online, just rocked up at the ticket office. There are also ferries from Shinas up to Musandam.

Flying

There are domestic flight routes. The national carrier Oman Air covers these locations.

Mobile and internet

If you are doing anything other than an organised tour where you don’t need things like Google maps and will have regular access to Wifi I recommend getting a local SIM card.

In the arrivals hall at Muscat International Airport, there are all the mobile providers. Omantel has the best coverage and good bundles for tourists. When I arrived they were on the left as you leave customs and enter the arrivals area. You can top up online or at Omantel shops.

If you want to use WhatsApp for calls, you’ll need a VPN as it is blocked in country. The same is probably the case for e.g. Facebook calls. WhatsApp is open for messaging and is very widely used. Get the VPN set up before you arrive.

Where to Stay

Hotels

Other than places like Nizwa that can get very booked - particularly Thursday night ahead of the Friday markets, in my experience you can rock up and get a room and it will often be cheaper than booking online through sites like booking.com. I was able to barter and get the price down in some cases. Away from top-end hotels, I think hotel prices are very reasonable here.

As noted below - those in the smaller towns prefer, and in some cases require cash payment.

Hostels

There aren’t many hostels in Oman. The Viva group have one in Muscat and another in Nizwa. I stayed in their Nizwa hostel and it was good, well located and very cheap.

Camping

Camping is permitted pretty much anywhere. In some wadis it is not allowed, for safety reasons - there can be rainfall upriver you are unaware of that can lead to flash flooding. So take care camping in any areas near rivers and wadis, even if they are dry. The Omanis are curious and generally want to help - so if you are camping you might find them stopping to check all is ok. I experienced this at 2am (as per my post on my trip) when two Omani men woke me to suggest somewhere I could stay where I’d be more comfortable. So my recommendation is to camp out of sight unless you fancy a chat.

Money

The local currency is the Omani Rial. If you order currency in advance, be warned you might get very high value notes. I ordered approximately AUD400 to take with me and got that in just two OMR50 notes.

Credit cards are widely accepted - far more than I was expecting - with tap-and-go being standard. You’ll want cash perhaps for souks, taxis, small restaurants and grocery stores and if you are going out of the main towns. There were a few hotels in the smaller towns that preferred cash.

I used a Travelex money card as my credit card most of the time I was there and topped it up as needed. Personal choice.

There are plenty of exchange bureaus in the cities and main towns.

Climate

Summer’s are seriously scorchio, with inland and desert temps regularly hitting over 50C. On the coast, you can still expect temperatures above 40C. People there described summer as going from April to October. Winters are not cold by comparison with e.g. UK or Australia. You’re looking at daytime temps in the 20C’s or perhaps low 30C’s - that’s from December to February. I was there during February and it was generally mid- to high-20s with the odd day in the 30s.

Personally, this is the time I’d recommend Dec-Feb. The only exception would be if you’re going to Salalah in the south - everyone there said August is the best time to go when the rains come through and everything becomes very green. Or if you want to see the turtles hatching (see itinerary below).

Laws and Culture

Oman is an Islamic country. As a general rule, breaches of any laws in Oman can have severe penalties when compared to western countries. Familiarise yourself with them - the Australian government's Smart Traveller website has some guidance on local laws.

Consider when Ramadan is when planning your travels. During this time avoid drinking and eating in public. You’ll also find that shops and businesses might have shorter opening hours.

Same-sex relationships and sex outside of marriage are illegal. Hotels may refuse couples who can’t prove they’re married.

Be aware of the local traditions and customs and respect them. Smart Traveller has some guidance on this as I’m sure other government websites do.

Ask before you photograph locals, particularly women.

Dress code

Modest attire is the go, particularly for women who will need covered shoulders and knees in public and hair must be covered if you go into any mosques. Even men should avoid sleeveless shirts and shorts in public areas.

When it comes to swimming for women - some of the beaches and wadis you’ll be fine in your swimmers, but at others you will need more coverage. Google before you go somewhere and/or look around at what others are doing. If you plan to swim, have e.g. a rash top and lycra pants with you in case.

I’d also recommend generally having loose-fitting clothing for women.

Food and drink

I found restaurants generally a bit expensive other than the smaller cafes, casual restaurants and coffee shops. But the food is great..I love Middle Eastern food. As well as Oman-specific food, there is cuisine from other countries in the region along with plenty of Indian options thanks to the large expat community.

People say the water is fine to drink from the tap, but I always treated it.

If you’ve read my write-up, you’ll know that cheesecake is widely available along with some great coffee. I discovered that when cafes call themselves a speciality coffee shop (on Google maps just search for speciality coffee), they tend to have really good coffee and cakes, including cheesecake. They didn’t seem to have savoury options. At the other little coffee shops around, cappuccinos will often be from a packet. I loved Omani coffee - it’s served black and is lightly spiced with cardamon. Nearly all the hotels will have a jug of coffee to help yourself to, always served in small cups.

Dates palms are a widespread crop with Oman being one of the major date suppliers globally. Dates are culturally significant and a popular food in Oman - whether eaten as, added to dishes or made into halwa, a gelled date pudding sprinkled with nuts. Where there is the coffee in the hotels, there is generally a bowl of dates.

Alcohol is available in hotels and restaurants.

Other considerations

Visas - it’s going to vary depending on where you are travelling from so check that out before you travel. I paid to get the 30-day visa which can be extended when you are there. My understanding is the free 14-day visa cannot be extended in country.

Insurance - you need to get travel insurance. Because of what I was doing I had two policies - a general travel policy and International SOS for the medical cover you get with them as well as their 24/7 assistance and the support they can provide. I’m not going to make any specific recommendations here - it’s for you to consider what’s appropriate.

Health - again, I’m not going to provide advice other than to suggest you speak to a travel doctor and look online at your government’s summaries. Australia’s Smart Traveller has good information. I had a first aid kit with me along with antibiotics, anti-histamine, anti-inflams, over the counter gastro meds and my prescriptions. I didn’t take proof of prescriptions from my doctor, but I have seen some sites that suggest you do. It might depend on what you are taking.

Opening hours - most shops and many tourist sights shut on Fridays (the weekend is Friday and Saturday) or if they do open it is in the late afternoon. The exceptions include large supermarkets and then some of the small coffee shops, restaurants out of town and petrol stations. Factor it into your planning. Also, look at when the public holidays are as this may have an impact too.

Suggested route and some recommended sights

This is purely my suggestion - definitely do your own research - there are plenty of resources out there with route recommendations and places to visit.

If you are thinking of a driving trip, a ten-day self-drive tour will get you to all the main sights without being rushed. You won’t have to cover crazy kms. The distances below are an estimate and will depend on the route you take.

Day 1 & 2: Muscat - have a couple of days here to acclimatise and get a feel for things. Some places to visit include the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muttrah, the Royal Opera House (either to look around or to see a performance).

Day 3: Bimmah Sinkhole and Tiwi (160km)- you can do Bimmah Sinkhole on the way to Tiwi and while there head to Wadi Ash Shab. There’s also Wadi Tiwi - a steep drive apparently but shorter walk in.

Day 4: Sur (47km) - an afternoon or 3/4 of the day you can see the Dhow museum, the fort and the corniche. A few of the sights there.

Day 5: Ras al-Jinz (51km) - (depeding on the time of year) Oman is home to turtle nesting grounds with thousands of turtles migrating annually there. May to August is the best time to witness female turtles nesting and laying their eggs while watching the turtle hatchlings emerging is July to September.

Day 6 & 7: Wahiba Sands (155km) - via Wadi Bani Khalid. I recommend having two nights in the desert to really experience it. Top-end camps that seem to get recommended a lot are 1000 Nights and Desert nights. I stayed at Clouds Desert Camp - small, budget and very good value. There are heaps of camps to choose from - just have a look on booking.com.

To narrow it down things to consider are: do you want to be away from the local town lights and noise (some are very close to Bidiyah); do you want to be on the dunes rather than below, do you want more of a hotel or tents, do you want aircon and the luxuries or happy with more basic, do you want lots of activities, do you want to stay with a true Behouin to learn more about desert life?

Note: generally the cost to be driven into the camps is extra. At some you will have to get taken in or guided if you have a 4WD. Arrange it in advance and beware of some Bedouins posing as camp drivers - there are some scammers.

Day 8: Nizwa (183km) - you could see the fort, castle and other key sites in a day. If you want to be there for the animal market, that’s on Fridays from about 6-8am.

Day 9: Jebel Shams (95km but will take around 2hr) - described as the Grand Canyon of Oman. I really wanted to go here, but there were storms when I’d planned to visit. There’s the balcony walk which is supposed to be very worth doing. Have walking shoes and be prepared for it to be a lot colder - it’s at 3000m.

Day 10: back to Muscat (240km)

Other places to consider:

• Jebel Al Akhdar - close to Nizwa and the name means ‘green mountain’ in Arabic. As the name suggestions, it is greener than Jebel Shams with its terraced fields

• Damanyiat Islands - lovely for snorkelling and scuba diving

• Masirah Island - there’s not heaps to do here, but in summer there’s good kitesurfing and there are a couple of nice hotels plus like Raz al-Jinz turtles lay their eggs there. Being budget conscious I stayed at Hotel Danat al Khaleej - I recommend it - has views over the water but still close to restaurants etc.

• Musandam - this is right in the north of Oman with the UAE between it and the main part of Oman. It can be reached by ferry or fly from Oman or by road from the UAE and looks spectacular.

• Salalah - down in the south. I had originally planned to go here and everyone says it is beautiful there, particularly around August time.

Solo females

Articles by solo-female travellers to Oman say how safe it is there. I certainly felt incredibly safe travelling there - and I met two other women travelling solo and they said the same. This is a country with very little crime - it has one of the lowest crime rates in the world.

Sexual assaults are very rare. An Omani tour guide did say to me that when some of the Bedouins see a woman not fully covered they think that she may be open to ‘possibilities’ if you get my drift. I had some saying ‘I love you’ and did get one offer for a massage, but it was easy enough to make it clear it was a big no. Worst case you just say that you’ll call the police. If you’re single, consider saying you have a boyfriend or are married (you will be asked if are if you’re on your own).

In my experience, everyone was exceptionally kind and helpful - I felt safe all the way.

That doesn’t mean you don’t take precautions. I am a risk manager after all. For example, one of the women I met, like me, was checking in with a friend each day. That I do recommend, wherever you travel if you’re solo. Have protocols in place for when you’ll check-in, that they will reply and steps to take if you miss a check-in. Feel free to message me if you’d like to find out more.

As noted above, follow the clothing guidelines. There are some situations where there is segregation, such as, on the ferry to Masirah Island - starboard side was for men only and port side women and families. On the first bus I got, I was directed to sit at the front. Other bus trips, women always sat at the front, so I just joined them.

Bikepacking

In my limited experience of bikepacking I’d say Oman is great for this - a combination of the roads (mostly brilliant), how much you can see over relatively short distances and the kindness of the people of Oman.

Bike shops

There are some good bike shops in Muscat two I went to are:

• Muscat Bike Shop - muscatbikes.com

• Cyclekom - www.cyclekom.com

You’ll find smaller bike repair shops in most towns and cities. They won’t have the supplies that your big bike shops have, but they can help with smaller issues.

If you don’t have any contacts in Oman, going to one of these shops and either getting them to check the bike over or to buy a few bits and pieces means you can get a phone number of someone to call in an emergency. I collected numbers as I went - tour guides, people who worked in the hotels, passers-by - who offered me their number in case I ran into difficulties.

The roads

The big roads, even in Muscat have a wide hard shoulder. Some have a service road which is a better option. The road from Mahout to Duqm had a smaller hard shoulder and with trucks going past, it wasn’t great. While most truck drivers will give you plenty of room, they don’t always (sometimes they can’t if there’s a vehicle coming in the opposite direction). Have a mirror on your handlebars to keep an eye out and be ready to get off the road. I tended to stick to the bigger roads, even if the cars were going faster because of the wide hard shoulder.

As per my observations at the start, you have no right of way as a cyclist. Drivers will sometimes let you go e.g. as you go around small roundabouts, but do not expect it.

If you are on the main roads and have to negotiate roundabouts be ready to be patient - you’ll need to walk your bike across when there’s a gap in the very fast-moving traffic.

Have lights and brightly coloured clothing and/or fluoro.

Finding Water

There are plenty of small shops in the towns and villages. Mosques will generally have a water tap, even filtered water, outside. You’ll also have people stopping to check if you have water. If you do run out - flag down a driver - they will nearly always have bottles of water in the car.

Bathrooms

One point to note: based on the modesty laws, finding spots to pee, particularly as a woman can be tricky. And even when you find a spot - as soon as someone sees you pulled up or spot an unattended bike they will often stop to check everything is ok, leading to an awkward conversation when you explain you are about to go the bathroom or worse still - you get spotted mid-action (thankfully I only had the former, and only nearly the latter!). Nearly all the petrol stations have toilets you can use (the women’s tend to be locked so use the mens).

SECURITY

I had a EVOC Hip Bag Pro - in that I had my passport, GPS, and my wallet. That was always on me. Then in the bike box on my handlebars I had my phone, GoPro, Sat phone along with snacks etc. It was detachable so if I went into a shop, bathroom etc I always took it with me. Hotels would always let me put the bike somewhere safe. Going into shops etc I never locked the bike. All the time I was there I think I locked it once.

Elevation

Obviously this is going to vary based on your route. I am not a cyclist and not a strong climber but didn’t have to push the bike (other than 100m up a very steep hill in Tiwi next to Wadi Shab). If you head to Jebel Shams, it will be steep plus if you take the scenic route out of Muscat to Al Amerat. The big roads tend not be have super steep inclines.

Videos

There are plenty of videos on YouTube on cycling and bike packing in Oman. Here are a few, including some who went off-road.

The Al Hajar Traverse: the plan was to bikepack across the Al Hajar Mountains in northern Oman. Things didn't go as planned.

Bikepacking Oman and the UAE: a 1500km bicycle tour of Oman and the UAE, beginning in Dubai, and finishing in Muscat. Includes some gravel riding.

Oman Cycling Expedition: a trip through Oman uncovering hidden treasures and overcoming unexpected challenges

Boundaries - Bikepacking Oman’s Al Hajar Mountains - a lovely short film by Jenny Tough, with a strong message encouraging embracing discomfort and pushing boundaries with some stunning videography