The Source of the Murray
The Murray River source
After the drive down, dropping off the kayak and an overnight in Jindabyne it was time to meet legendary Richard Swain who was going to guide the initial section. He's an indigenous river guide who runs Alpine River Adventures, an ecotourism business in Kosciuszko National Park. He has a long history of volunteering on local environmental and community projects is an ambassador for the Invasive Species Council.
Arriving at his home I was in for a surprise. Sitting outside Alison, Richard’s wife, came around the corner holding two orphaned baby wombats they are caring for - Happy and George - both about 10 months old and the cutest. Alison asked if I wanted to hold one of them – are you kidding?!
Mike Bremers arrived and we all spent the evening planning the initial section. Sadly there wasn’t enough water in the top section to paddle after the initial hike. It was great to have Mike join us. He has quite literally written the book when it comes to Murray River trips! And he completed his own source to sea trip over a number of years.
The next day Richard drove us to the point to walk into the source in Kosciuzko National Park. There we met Chris, one Richard’s guides. He and Richard then did a long drive to drop off one car we could use to bring us back here. Logistical fun!
Meanwhile Mike and I walked the 12km to Cowombat Flats. With full packs, a bit of a climb and some warm weather it was the start of a tough few days hiking. At the flats we left our packs and made our way up to the source. Still not sure how Mike managed to find it hidden deep in the bush even if it was this third trip here!
At the top of the of the pole are canisters containing the visitor’s book – a couple of small notebooks for those that reach the source to write in. It was pretty cool to read some of the comments of those who’d made it, including Mike.
I wrote in the book just as Mike spotted a snake sunning itself about 5m away. Like I said before, I really not a fan of snakes! I was thankful I’d made the last minute purchase of some gaiters to cover my lower legs and protect should any of these reptiles strike.
We then walked up to the cairn (aka pile of rocks) that is the first survey monument of the Black-Allan line. This is the straight-line section of the New South Wales and Victorian state border from the source to Cape Horne on the coast.
Following the dry track of the Murray back down to Cowombat flats we met Richard and Chris and camped there for the night after a total of 19km walking.
FERAL HORSES
On the way and over the next few days I was set to see plenty of feral horses (brumbies). I also got to see the devasting damage they do. One example is the flats we camped at. There are a few fenced off areas the horses cannot reach. The difference between these areas and the rest are chalk and cheese. They are having a ruinous impact on the native flora and fauna as well as the rivers themselves.
Until talking to Richard I had no idea of the problems they’re causing. In five years the numbers have more than doubled – from 9,187 in 2014 to 25,318 in 2019. Richard and Alison coordinate the environmental group, Reclaim Kosci (www.reclaimkosci.org.au) that’s calling for laws protecting the feral horses be repealed and put in place effective and humane control.
BUSH BASHING
The next day it was time to head into the bush. The aim was to stay a stone’s throw away from the river. And that’s not my throw, more a Glenn McGrath throw (former Aussie cricketer for the non-cricket lovers). It wasn’t long until we were pushing our way through thick scrub, trees, climbing up and down rocks and steep slopes, keeping eye’s peeled for snakes. We saw another three as we went. No photos – I was standing WELL back.
There was wading through the river, up to my bum at times, trying not to go arse over on the slippery rocks. Have to say I was a wee bit ‘walking Miss Daisy’ and pleased I had a couple of walking poles to help my dodgy old knees and hip.
As we went Richard shared so much fascinating information about aboriginal culture and the wildlife we saw. He is passionate about the land, sharing his knowledge and protecting this precious environment. It was a privilege to spend the time with him and he was incredible at making this trip possible for this completely inexperienced bushwalker.
Check out this link to a stunning video showing the Snowy River and one of the river trips he runs. Can’t wait to come back and doing the missed river section once the water levels are back up.
The next day was more of the same making our way until just after Limestone Creek when it was time for the long, steep climb out.
Next it was a drive to Geehi for the night. The next day we got to see a skippy boxing class as we had brekkie – a few pairs of kangaroos sparring as they made their way to graze.
Mike and I set off for a beautiful 25km hike to Khancoban. After 7.5 hours we reached the end. Sore feet, sweat soaked but so stoked! The last few days had been such an adventure. Tough for sure, but that’s part of it and all up a fantastic experience.
RIVER CHALLENGES
After a bit of a rest and enjoying a bed and aircon it was time to get on the river from Khancoban. My timing wasn’t great – despite being assured there’d be enough water to paddle to the Hume reservoir it wasn’t the case.
Over the first six day I was constantly getting out of the kayak to drag it over rocks or avoid fallen trees/strainers. It was fairly precarious at times, exhausting and frustrating and the internal chat wasn’t helpful. I wanted to give up and come back when the rains have come and this drought is over. All I could think about was lying by a beach sipping mocktails!
A close encounter with a brown snake didn’t do much to lift my spirits. I was having dinner and he came around the corner. I have NEVER moved so fast in my life. Thankfully he scarpered too. Better yet, there was some guys fishing nearby who kindly came and checked the snake hadn’t taken up residence under my tent…
Eventually I hit the Hume Resevoir – the levels are low, around 30%. I was rewarded with the wind behind me for the last section of this reservoir. It was kind of eerie paddling through all the dead trees, killed by the flooding of the resevoir.
Next was getting around the dam wall – Dave of Murray River Canoe hires came to the rescue and sent one of his guys to give me and my gear a lift round. Result!!! Not only that, he put me up for a couple of nights – a rest day and time to restock in Albury. The section from the dam to Albury was a joy – with the river flowing, 27km was done in just under 3 hours. A distance that would have taken 8 hours on the worst of it upstream…
TIS THE SEASON...TO HELP
As you know we are seeing the temperatures here in Aus rising to unprecedented highs and a devastating drought. The fires are continuing to burn, taking homes and lives as they go and pushing our firefighters to their limits and killing so many animals. I’m not raising money for a particular charity for this trip, but for anyone with a few dollars to spare below are a few charities that could really benefit from some seasonal generosity.
Wires Wildlife Rescue
Wires is a wildlife rescue operation helping to rescue all kinds of animals and wildlife injured. An emergency fund has been set up. You can donate here.
NSW Rural Fire Service
NSW RFS members are volunteers risking their lives to fight these catastrophic level fires. They are doing an unbelievable job in the most challenging of conditions. They have given up their time, their Christmas and taken time out from work to save their communities. You can donate to the NSW RFS here.
The Salvation Army
The Salvation Army has launched a disaster appeal to help support evacuees and emergency services during the current crisis. Their teams are providing meals to evacuees and firefighters. You can donate to their disaster appeal here.
Well that's it for now. A day here in Albury to rest and resupply before getting back on the water.
I hope you had a wonderful Christmas and wishing you all a very Happy New Year and adventure filled 2020!
Sarah x x